A Pork Spine Soup Institution Near Myeongdong That Locals Keep Coming Back To

You're probably in Myeongdong for the obvious reasons. But nine minutes from the subway station, tucked just far enough from the tourist strip, Dongwon Restaurant (동원집) is doing something different — serving one of Seoul's more quietly rewarding bowls of gamjatang to people who actually live and work around here.

What to Expect

Gamjatang is pork spine soup. The bones are braised low and slow until the broth turns deep and murky-brown, and the meat clinging to the spine practically falls off with a little pressure. There are potatoes in there too — soft, soaked through with everything the broth has to offer.

Dongwon's version leans toward the mellow end of the spectrum. It's not punchy or aggressively spiced. The heat is present but it's not the point — the depth is. Think of it like a Korean equivalent of a really good bone broth stew, but with more going on. A bit of funk, a little richness, a warmth that builds slowly.

One thing to know: eating gamjatang is hands-on. You will absolutely use your fingers to hold the bones and pull the meat off. That's not a warning — that's part of it.

What to Order

Pork spine soup (gamjatang) is the reason to come. Order the pot for two if you're visiting with someone — the portions run large. The broth refill is unlimited, and you can add more potatoes for a small extra charge, which is worth doing if you're settling in for a while.

Blood sausage (soondae) comes up in reviews often enough that it's worth flagging. Korean soondae isn't like anything you've had elsewhere — it's glass noodles and barley stuffed into pork intestine, steamed rather than grilled, with a texture that's softer and milder than Western black pudding. If you're curious about Korean street food staples, this is a low-pressure way to try it.

Soju mixed with bokbunja (Korean black raspberry wine) at a 2:1 ratio is apparently the drink of choice here. The servers will set you up.

Atmosphere & Vibe

Old. Unpretentiously old. The interior hasn't been renovated to look like a K-drama set — it looks like a place that has been feeding people for decades and sees no reason to change. If you're expecting sleek or photogenic, this isn't it. But if you're after the feeling of eating somewhere that actually means something to the neighborhood, that's exactly what this delivers.

It's good for groups. Tables are communal-friendly, the food is meant to be shared, and the noise level makes conversation easy. The staff are efficient — not warm in a theatrical way, but genuinely helpful when you need something.

Come for the first round. There are plenty of bars nearby for the second.

Practical Info

• Address: 서울특별시 중구 퇴계로27길 48 / 48 Toegye-ro 27-gil, Jung District, Seoul, South Korea
• Google Maps: Open in Google Maps
• Nearest subway: Myeongdong Station, 9 min walk
• Hours: Mon–Fri 10:00 AM – 10:00 PM | Sat 10:00 AM – 9:00 PM | Sun Closed
• Price range: $ (budget-friendly, under 15,000 KRW per person is realistic)
• Spice level: Mild–Medium
• Vegetarian: No
• Halal-friendly: No (pork-based menu)
• Reservations: Not available
• Good for groups: Yes

Before You Go

Lunch on weekdays is your best window — it fills up in the evening, especially on Fridays. And since it's closed Sundays, don't save this for the end of the week.

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